How to make a shrub: a fruit, sugar and vinegar builder for tart alcohol-free drinks

A shrub is a drinking vinegar: fruit and sugar left together until they turn into a syrup, then sharpened with vinegar. Stirred into sparkling water it gives you a drink that is tart, fruity and not very sweet, with no alcohol anywhere. It is one of the easiest ways to make a grown-up soft drink at home, and it needs nothing more than a jar, a sieve and a few days of patience.

The one rule to remember

The classic cold method is built on equal parts by weight: the same amount of fruit, sugar and vinegar. It is a starting point, not a law. Recipes vary, and many cooks use a little less vinegar for a mellower result or a little less sugar for a drier one. The builder below lets you move all three and see what you need.

Why vinegar and sugar belong together

Sugar draws water and juice out of the fruit without any heat, so the fruit keeps a fresher flavour than it would in a cooked syrup. That syrup is sweet and fruity but a bit flat. The vinegar adds the acid that makes the drink taste lively, and the sweet-and-sour balance is exactly what a shrub is for. The old word for this idea is a drinking vinegar, and it has been made in many kitchens for a long time.

The high sugar and the vinegar also make the mixture a hostile place for most spoilage. Food-safety advisers who have been asked about it say a chilled shrub keeps well in a closed container and that mould is the thing to watch for. Opinions on exact shelf life differ, so treat any figure as a guide: it keeps for weeks and often for months in the fridge, and you should throw it away if you see mould or smell anything off.

Cold or hot?

The cold method above is slower but keeps the fruit tasting fresh. The hot method simmers fruit with equal parts sugar and water and then adds vinegar once it has cooled. It takes about half an hour instead of days and works well when you are short of time or have firm fruit. The result tastes more like jam, so expect a cooked note.

Taste it before you serve it. The ratio is a start, and your fruit decides the rest.

Serving it

The usual starting point is about one part shrub to four or five parts sparkling water over ice, as in the glass above. Taste and adjust: a very ripe fruit may need more vinegar and a tart one may need less. A slice of the same fruit or a sprig of mint is enough garnish.

• Alcohol-free: shrub, sparkling water, ice and a squeeze of lemon.
• Mocktail: shake the shrub with a splash of juice and tea, then top with soda.
• With spirits, if you drink: a small measure in a sour or a highball, such as a London dry gin or a light rum. Keep to sensible limits and never drive after drinking.

Never drink the shrub undiluted. Vinegar is harsh on the teeth and the throat, so always mix it into a long drink.

What to look for

• A clean jar: glass with a lid, washed in hot water. Metal lids can rust from the vinegar, so a plastic or lined lid is better.
• Ripe fruit: fruit that already tastes good gives a better shrub than fruit that is hard or bland.
• A vinegar you would taste on its own: check that it is at least a decent cider, wine or rice vinegar. Avoid very harsh white spirit vinegar.
• A fine sieve: to strain out the fruit; pressing it lightly gets the most flavour out.